Learn How To Tie Climbing Knots


Tying Knots is a fundamental skill in all types of Climbing. However, it does take practice. In the beginning, remembering every knot will be difficult. But take comfort, you do not need to learn all the knots right away.
here you ´ll see several knots that are used in Rock Climbing.




Single Loop Knots



Alpine Butterfly Knot

The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots. It is strong, secure, and easily tied. It can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don't have access to the ends. It can be pulled in two or three directions without distorting, and it can be used to strengthen a damaged rope by isolating the damaged area. These things make the Alpine Butterfly a very versatile and valuable knot to know.

If you are tying the Alpine Butterfly at the end of a rope, you can tie a Stopper Knot to the free end of the rope for added security.








Step 1:
Twist the rope to form a loop.

Step 2:
Form another loop by twisting the loop that you made earlier. This creates two loops which resemble the number 8.

Step 3:
Bring the second loop (the one at the top) down and underneath the rope.

Step 4:
Pass the second loop through the first one.

Step 5:
Pull the two ends of the rope in opposite directions.





Bowline

The Bowline has been called the "King of Knots" and it is used around the world in one form or another. This type of knot opens under ring loading and is prone to loosening up when there is no load on it (especially in some synthetic ropes). This increases the possibility of it coming undone or distorted. In addition, the breaking strength of this knot is as much as 40% (very high, meaning that it reduces the strength of the rope heavily). Nevertheless, the bowline can be used for a wide range of jobs.







Step 1:

Twist the rope to form a crossing turn or a loop. You can do this by bringing the working end under the standing part.

Step 2:
Pass the tip of the working end through the crossing turn or loop.

Step 3:
Move the tip of the working end underneath the standing part.

Step 4:
Pass the tip of the working end through the crossing turn or loop again. Pull to tighten.




Figure Eight Loop


The Figure Eight Loop is formed by making a Figure Eight Knot on a bight. It is generally considered to be 10-15% stronger than the basic Bowline. This knot is easy to remember. It is easy to tie and is generally considered to be strong and secure. However, it is difficult to untie after applying heavy load.







Step 1:
Fold the rope back on itself to make a bight.

Step 2:
Form a loop, with the working end on top of the standing part.

Step 3:
Bring the working end underneath the standing part.

Step 4:
Pass the working end through the loop.

Step 5:
Pull the working end to tighten.



Double Loop Knots


Double Figure Eight Loop

Also known as bunny ears, the Double Figure Eight Loop is tied to equalize the load on two anchors, each clipped to the 'ear'. This knot is considered to be strong and secure, and it is fairly easy to adjust the size of the 'ears' or loops by moving rope from one of the loops to the other.








Step 1:
Fold the rope back on itself to make a bight.

Step 2:
Form a loop, with the working end underneath the standing part.

Step 3:
Bring the working end on top of the standing part.

Step 4:
Make a loop in the working end.

Step 5:
Insert the second loop to the first one.

Step 6:
Get the working end and pass it around and over the knot.

Step 7:
Pull to tighten.



Double Alpine Butterfly Knot

If an Alpine Butterfly Knot allows you to make a loop in the middle of the rope if you do not have access to the two ends, a Double Alpine Butterfly enables you to form two loops.







Step 1:

Wrap the rope four times around your hand.

Step 2:
Bring the first strand (the one nearest to your thumb) over the last strand.

Step 3:
Grab the two leftmost strands and bring them over the last two strands.

Step 4:
Bring the two rightmost strands underneath the other two.

Step 5:
Pull to tighten.



Hitches


Prusik Knot

A Prusik Knot is used in ascending a rope or as backup in abseiling. This knot is also useful in holding onto a vertical rope and hauling up load or another climber.







Step 1:
Tie the working end and standing part together to form a loop. For added security, you can tie a Fisherman's or Double Fisherman's Knot to create the loop. Pass the knot around the rope.

Step 2:
Make a second turn around the rope and then pass the knot through the loop you made in Step 1.

Step 3:
Pull the knot to tighten.




Clove Hitch

This is a popular Hitch which is easy to tie, and is one of the most frequently used knots that is essential for both summer and winter climbing. It is used mainly as an anchor knot and in belay setup. Do not make two or more Clove Hitches onto one Carabiner. The correct way to clip the knot is with the load rope nearest to the back bar of the Carabiner, along its stronger axe.







Step 1:
Make two crossing turns which are similar in size. The second one should be made in the opposite direction.

Step 2:
Put the second loop over the first.

Step 3:
Clip the Carabiner onto the loop created by the first two. Pull to tighten.



Italian Hitch

The Italian Hitch is an extremely useful knot as it can be used for Belaying, Abseiling, and rigging. It is a friction device which creates friction by rubbing on the hardware or object, usually a Carabiner, so the descent can be controlled in a belay mechanism. But since this knot leaves a lot of bends in the rope, the Italian Hitch is used only as back-up or for emergency situations.

As a belaying knot, this hitch allows great flexibility in system design and operation.
The knot is controlled from the front, as opposed to a belay plate which must be controlled from behind. Maximum breaking is obtained by having the ropes parallel on the load side of the carabiner.







Step 1:
Run the rope through the opened Carabiner.

Step 2:
Make a loop in the rope.

Step 3:
Pass the Carabiner through the loop.

Step 4:
Pull to tighten and close the gate of the biner.



Stopper Knots


Overhand Knot

This is probably the simplest knot, and the easiest to learn. The Overhand Knot is usually used as a stopper knot and is also the basis of several other knots used in climbing-related activities.








Step 1:
Make a crossing turn or loop by placing the working end on top of the standing part.

Step 2:
Pass the working end through the loop.

Step 3:
Pull both ends to tighten.



Double Overhand Knot

Compared to the Overhand Knot, the Double Overhand Knot is more preferable to be used as a stopper knot since it is harder to untie and is less likely to pull through. This is sometimes tied with another knot for added security.







Step 1:
Make a crossing turn or loop by placing the working end on top of the standing part.

Step 2:
Pass the working end through the loop.

Step 3:
Repeat Step 2. At this point, you should have two complete turns at the standing part.

Step 4:
Pull both ends to tighten.


Figure Eight Knot

The Figure of Eight Knot is one of the easiest knots to learn. This stopper knot does not jam and is easy to undo.








Step 1:
Twist the rope to form a crossing turn or a loop. You can do this by bringing the working end under the standing part.

Step 2:
Bring the working end above the standing part.

Step 3:
Pass the working end through the crossing turn or loop that you made earlier.

Step 4:
Pull to tighten. The knot should be similar to the number 8, hence the name Figure 8.


Water Knot

also known as the Tape Knot, the Water Knot is usually used to join the ends of two ropes or tapes. This knot is actually two Overhand Knots using two ropes or tapes. It is also used in making tapes into slings.








Step 1:
Tie an Overhand Knot on the first rope or tape.

Step 2:
Make another Overhand Knot using the second rope, following the direction of the first knot. Start from the standing part.

Step 3:
Complete the second knot.

Step 4:
Pull to tighten.


Fisherman's Knot

As part of the Bends family, the Fisherman's Knot is usually used to tie two ropes or lines of similar diameter such as lines used in Fishing, hence the name. It can also serve as a stopper knot and tie up loose ends of the rope







Step 1:
Get the first rope and make a complete turn around the second rope.

Step 2:
Make another turn and then pass the working end of the first rope through the two loops.

Step 3:
Pull to tighten.


Double Fisherman's Knot

Also known as the Grapevine Knot, the Double Overhand Knot is commonly used to tie two ropes of different diameters. As the namne suggests, this knot involves tying two Fisherman's Knots on the ropes









Step 1:
Get the first rope and make a complete turn on the second rope.

Step 2:
Make another turn and then pass the working end of the first rope through the two loops.

Step 3:
Pull to tighten.

Step 4:
Repeat Steps 1 to 3 but this time, use the second rope in tying the knot on the other side.

Step 5:
Pull the ends of the two ropes to tighten.