The first thing to do is, on paper, draw the original design of printed circuit board as we want it done. For this we use either a ruler and pencil (and patience) or a program printed circuit board design. Either pencil or computer you should always have on hand to mount electronic components on the circuit to see the physical space required and the distance between each of its terminals.

 

First thing we do is to place the islands. For programs that use printed circuit board design computer islands appear as "Pads".

 


As shown, there is more than just a representation of the above circuit with circles. Then unite the islands with tracks that programs often appear as "Tracks".

 

Then print the same, 1:1 scale, with the electronics so that they fit into the PCB. This impression will be made on special paper. The transfer paper can be sold in electronics stores or simply (as used in this case) couche paper.


Laser Printing should be as essential to this process, the paste printer toner to the paper and then the toner is transferred to the plate untouched.
 






 

Plate should be cut as a virgin.After cutting the plate as a virgin should be cleaned, for it is polished with a fine steel wool until the copper becomes light in color.Polished after the plate is mounted on the printed design above it and secures it to the plate by means of paper tapes.
Note: Paper must be aligned to the plate, otherwise the transfer will go crooked. 

 





 



Then he proceeds to transfer the design from paper to the plate for it with an iron at maximum temperature begins to iron the paper (the side that is not the tape, you should board for about 2 minutes until it begins to PCB design transparent (transparency is very poor but you can tell) this way we know that the toner is transferred to the system board.




 

 

 


Once cut the excess paper, should be immersed in water for the same paper begins to soften and can be removed by simply rubbing it with your finger.


 


 

 

 



Once extracted the surplus of paper (in some cases part of the design breaks it can be reconstructed with a solvent ink marker, in our case did not break anything so there was no need to use it). With a pin remove the remaining paper in between track and into the holes of the PCB PAD.




 

 

 



Now, since then we are left with the virgin copper plate coated with the transferred design, and for this stage will need:
• Cluorúro ferric (acid to platelets is counter at hardware stores)• A flat-bottomed plastic container
Now we introduce the plate as it is in a plastic container with acid (ferric perchloride).
Note: be aware that this acid stain anything and it is harmful to health must take health and safety precautions. The process of acid may take more or less depending on the temperature. If done with the acid at room temperature may take up to 2 hours, if the acid is heated with a constraining or otherwise (a water bath for example) the process may decrease to 15 minutes. It also helps move the wafer and forth slowly.
 

 

 

 

 

 

After that we remove the plate from the acid, we cleaned the remaining acid with water and remove excess paper and toner to the copper with a fine steel wool.
We can fully appreciate the drawings transferred in copper: 

 

 

Now we have to make the holes as appropriate (with a lock of 1mm) and clean again with steel wool to remove any burrs and clean up the board for the next step.  


 

 


Now I bring a very practical and easy check for me that can help in the solder electronic
Welding is nothing more than to join two metals so that they are physically linked, electronically speaking, is simply creating a point of electrical connection. At the junction of molten tin is added which, once cooled, is the union. Basically need to weld the two parts to be joined, a soldering iron and tin.Also included in this section a cheap and really useful accessory that you liked to have: a support for the welder. The soldering tip can be at a temperature of 350 ° C, probably not want to have it loose on the table.

 

 

ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
Is called electronic component device that is part of an electronic circuit. It is usually encapsulated, usually in a ceramic, metal or plastic, and end in two or more terminals or metal pins. Are designed to be connected together, usually by welding, to a printed circuit to form the said circuit.
We must differentiate between components and elements. Components are physical devices, while the elements are idealized models or abstractions that are the basis for the theoretical study of the aforementioned components. Thus, the components appear in a list of devices that form a circuit, while the elements appear in the mathematical developments of circuit theory.
Component and its most common function

Operational amplifiers: Amplification, regulation, signal conversion, switching.Bistable: Control of sequential systems.DSP: Digital Control Systems.Diac: Control of power.Diode: Correction of signals, regulation, voltage multiplier.Zener diode: Regulation of tension.FPGA: Control of digital systems.Memory: Digital storage of data.Microprocessor control digital systems.Microcontroller: Control of digital systems.Stack Generation: electricity.Thyristor: Control of power.Logic gate: Control of combinational systems.Transistor: Amplification, switching.Triac: Control of power.


Passive ComponentsAre those that do not require a power source for operation. Not have the ability to control the current in a circuit.
The passive components are divided into
Capacitor: Energy storage, filtering, impedance adaptation.
Inductor or Coil: Store or mitigate the change in energy due to its power of self-induction.
Resistor or Resistance: Division of current or voltage, current limiting

 


There are many types of welding, soldering but the choice is clear: Pencil type. The tip is thin, which makes small precise welds. When you buy a soldering iron, the basic feature that should be considered is its power. For soldering 15 to 25 W is recommended, more power is unnecessary and only help you get more nervous about the heat, especially when you're learning. For starters, any generic model of power that serves you. With generic I mean an unknown brand welder is just that, a welder. Check the power and the tip is thin and has a pencil. If you catch him later and still practiced welding, soldering iron you can buy a quality, as Weller (I recommend a 25-w)

 


Put the two parties to unite in touch. Air welding
Now we must apply the solder. As the two parts to be welded are in contact, should resultarnos easy to apply the soldering iron and heat both sides equally. Now is the time you spend caring: both sides are going to warm gradually, almost reaching the temperature of the soldering tip.
Then we apply the tin to the union, they are trying to unite the party that founded the solder wire, and solder. We must apply the appropriate tin binding (experience will tell you how much), about 3 or 4 mm tin wire bonds tend to correct. While applying the tin, notice how the molten tin is distributed by the union, and move the tip of the tin if necessary to help you distribute.
Then, remove the tin and then remove the soldering iron. Typical rookie mistake: blowing. NOT blowing a weld, one must be cooled, if you blow the solder is brittle and of poor quality. Sure you can wait 3 or 4 seconds for the tin to cool itself.



 




 
1. Keeping the pieces together and firm2. Heat both sides in Cautin.3. Apply tin in the union, trying to be cast by the parties, not the Cautin4. Remove tin and Cautin, in that order. Do not blow




 

ONLY WHEN IT IS FINISHED TEST CIRCUIT ... = P


 

 



THIS IS ANOTHER SOURCE CIRCUIT HAVING A FULL OUTPUT 5V 5V-12V-12V ADJUSTABLE PULSE GENERATOR


 

 

 

 

 




 


 
[/size]